What's in a Name?

When I was 16 I started work and had to travel out of the area I knew well and catch a bus off to various places in West London. To do this I usually caught a bus to the Elephant, as I previously mentioned on this blog, and then the Bakerloo line up to Charing Cross where I changed onto the District / Circle to Earls Court, South Kensington etc.

Those from a later time might be puzzled and ask, "change at Charing Cross for the district line? But it doesn't go there. don't you mean Embankment? Of course today it doesn't so today they'd be right.

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A few years ago I was watching a old Dr Who film of Dalek Invasion Earth 2163 (I had seen it at the cinema when I was a kid - but let's not go there!) when I saw an anachronism which made me laugh. The "freedom fighters" were hiding in an old wrecked underground station, Embankment, but when the film was made Embankment station didn't exist. ....

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The history of the underground is one which has loads to offer, from innovation, to reuse of assets originally built for a different purpose to sharp business practice and even dare one suggest even darker episodes, (of which more another time), But whatever it was, it certainly wasn't a straightforward well-planned project.

Built by several private companies competing, often to the detriment of each other, as well as the public and their shareholders, the station complex which is now Embankment illustrates the chaos which resulted very well.

The oldest part of the station was opened on 30th May 1870 by the Metropolitan District Railway (now the District line) at the time that the company extended its line between Westminster and Blackfriars in conjunction with the building of the Victoria Embankment. Due to its proximity to the South Eastern Railway's Charing Cross station, the station was called Charing Cross.

So it remained until 1906, (though there were some plans for an express route that never materialised), when the Baker Street and Waterloo Railway (now the Bakerloo Line) opened its deep-level platforms beneath, and at ninety degrees to, the platforms of the Metropolitan District Railway. Though connected to the older station, the Baker Street and Waterloo Railway decided to name its platforms differently, as Embankment.

Then in 1914, the Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Railway (now a part of the Northern line) opened a one stop extension south from its terminus at Charing Cross. This was built to make a better connect between the Baker Street and Waterloo, and Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Railways, as both lines were by then owned by the Underground Electric Railways Company of London which operated two separate, and unconnected, stations at the northern end of the Charing Cross mainline station; Trafalgar Square on the Baker Street and Waterloo Railway. and Charing Cross on the Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Railway.

The Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Railway extension was constructed as a single track tunnel running south from Charing Cross as a loop under the River Thames and back.

For the opening of the Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Railway extension, the deep-level parts of the station were named "Charing Cross (Embankment)" although the sub-surface platforms remained as Charing Cross, but in 1915, this was simplified by changing the name of the whole station to Charing Cross. The Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Railway station at the northern end of the Charing Cross mainline station was renamed Strand at the same time.

In the 1920s, as part of the construction of what is now the Northern line, the Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Railway was extended south to Waterloo and Kennington where it was connected to the City & South London Railway. The loop tunnel under the river was abandoned (although the present northbound Northern line platform follows its course) and two new tunnels were bored south. The new extension was opened on 13 September 1926.

So everything stayed until the Jubilee line came to town. As part of the new construction the two old stations, Trafalgar Square and Strand were to be linked, and new platforms added for the Terminus of the new line. Strand was closed for a long period for the work, then in 1976, shortly after I started work, the old Charing cross became Embankment, so that the merged Strand and Trafalgar Square stations could be named Charing Cross.

So the stations remain today, Embankment, where it belongs on the embankment and Charing Cross under the main line station of the same name.

How did the makers of the Dr Who film predict that in the 1960s?

The Duke of York's Column

Nelson's Column in Trafalgar Square is not only famous nationally, but internationally; one of the icons of London. Yet a few hundred yards away, and not even that as the pigeon flies, stands another, neglected column, this one to a soldier. Yet he also played an important role in the Napoleonic wars, and even has a nursery rhyme commemorating him -
even if not a complementary one!

I first saw him across the rooftops from the canteen in the first building I worked in and at first glance I thought it was Nelson I could see, but quickly realised it wasn't and went in search of him

The column is in memory of the Duke of York, the second son of George III and stands at the top of the Duke of York steps overlooking the Mall.
He was, it's said, his father's favourite son but remained, however, somewhat in the shadow of his flashy elder brother, George, Prince of Wales, especially after the latter became Prince Regent due to the mental incapacity of the King.

As many aristocratic sons did, he made a career in the army and in 1793, the Duke of York was sent to Flanders in command of the British contingent and as a result, his father promoted him to the rank of field marshal, and then Commander-in-Chief. So no nepotism there then!

His arrival at his second field command coincided with a number of disasters befalling the force, and as these military setbacks were inevitable given the Duke's lack of combat experience, the lamentable state of the British army at the time and the intervention of pure bad luck during the campaign; the Prince is perhaps unfairly, pilloried for
all time in the rhyme...

...The Grand Old Duke of York,

The grand old Duke of York,
He had ten thousand men.
He marched them up to the top of the hill
And he marched them down again.
And when they were up, they were up.
And when they were down, they were down.
And when they were only halfway up,
They were neither up nor down.

Particularly unfair, as given his experience of the poor performance of the army in Flanders, he carried out many significant structural, training and logistical reforms during his service as the army's commander-in-chief. These reforms contributed to Britain's subsequent successes in the wars against Napoleon.

Another change he made, and one closer to the heart of many a squaddie was the introduction of "Beer money". The nickname was given to an allowance, started in 1800, that was given to non-commissioned officers and soldiers. Actually it was only a penny per day and was a replacement for a daily issuance of beer or spirits while troops were on home
service. The allowance continued until 1873 when it was rolled into the soldier's daily pay. So nothing extra in fact and one wonders if the penny would cover what the soldiers would actually spend on beer in a day!

When he died in 1827, the entire Army gave up a day's wages in order to pay for a monument to the Duke. Accounts vary as to how voluntary this was but that was the source of the money used to raise the column which was started in 1833 and finished a year later.

Inside the column is hollow and a spiral staircase of 168 steps leads to the viewing platform around the base of the statue. This however has been closed to the public for many decades. Though was once open in the afternoons for entry on payment of a fee.

The great height of the column - 123 feet 6 inches (37.64 m) - caused wits to suggest that the Duke was trying to escape his creditors, as the Duke died ￡2 million in debt. (An enormous sum in 1827! )Though I have also heard it said when Nelson's column was built the Navy insisted his column had to be higher as befitted a member of the senior service.

The stonework was designed by B. Wyatt in Aberdeenshire granite, the Tuscan column is topped by  the statue of Duke of York in the robes of the Order of the Garter, sculptured in bronze by Sir Richard Westmacott RA  it weighs in at well over 7 and half tons!!


Well, there he stands still, walked past by many who know little of him, and yet who know the rhyme belittling him. Sadly forgotten though maybe with his reforms, as important in his own way in beating Napoleon as either Nelson or Wellington.

The grand ol' Duke of York, appropriately, at the top of his own little hill of steps.

Laurie Smith

Nelson and Wellington

What does Trafalgar Square and Nelson’s column commemorate? The easy answer is Nelson’s victory over Napoleon’s forces at Trafalgar in 1805. Or more cynically keeping a German family on the throne and republicanism from these shores.

Napoleon Bonaparte was the scourge of the European monarchies, and the ruling elites of the day were determined to stop him. The Duke of Wellington, with the help of the common soldier and the Prussians, defeated Bonaparte ten years after the Battle of Trafalgar. But what monument is there to Wellington himself? There is a Wellington Arch and Wellington Barracks but they do not feature so prominently in popular consciousness as Trafalgar Square and Nelson’s column.

Wellington Arch sits on the roundabout on Hyde Park Corner (it has been moved a couple of times). But there is no statue of Wellington on top. There used to be but it proved too unpopular.

Between 1803 and 1805 Bonaparte amassed an invasion flotilla of 2,343 ships with the intention of invading Britain. This flotilla was kept in its home ports and prevented from invading by the Royal Navy’s Channel Fleet of 30 plus ships under Admiral Sir William Cornwallis; Nelson played no part in this. It was Cornwallis who put together the fleet that Nelson commanded at Trafalgar.

Nelson was of relatively humble origins. Progress through the ranks of the British Navy was on merit and Nelson became a popular hero and commander. Ashore he was mobbed by crowds as a celebrity would be today. Unfortunately for him but fortunately for his heroic status, he died at the height of his popularity during Trafalgar. Although Trafalgar could not stop Bonaparte it did give Britain naval supremacy. Nelson was no radical but Trafalgar was the cup final in a naval world series that would not be challenged for 100 years or more.

The British merchant and the industrialist were to gain power, wealth and empire from this naval victory. The British army of the time was not so egalitarian. Wellington’s commission was bought for him by his brother. Wellington may have been an effective general but he was no democrat. After his return from Waterloo he became a Tory MP and Prime Minister. After his first Cabinet meeting he is reported as saying “An extraordinary affair. I gave them their orders and they wanted to stay and discuss them.”

He got the nickname the ‘Iron Duke’ not because of military prowess but because of the shutters he had on his house to protect him from the mob. He was booed on the streets for the troops cutting down civilians at a meeting for democracy in Manchester (the Peterloo massacre).

Basically he was an old style aristocrat trying to halt social change. So what does Trafalgar Square commemorate? Not so much a decisive naval victory or the death of a popular hero, more a period of change and the birth of the ‘middle classes.’ And Wellington Arch, a fading era.

John Clark